Ultimately the quest for Koffee
Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must
first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal enlightenment
found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone before.
Caffe' Rosto Modifications
(I do not advise you to do as I have done. Any modifications to your Caffe' Rosto will most likely void any warranty. Any re-wiring you choose to do is entirely beyond my control and is not my fault! If you happen to get electrocuted or your house burns down don't blame me:-)
Last modified 01/17/03, work in progress!
See links at end for other mods etc.
Roasting monitoring temperature while controlling heater and fan independently gives total control. You can do a hard rolling 2nd crack French in 4 minutes or light gently finished 1st crack Cinnamon in 25 minutes or anything and every roast in between. You decide!
This is just a quick picture showing my current setup in the midst of work in progress mess. That's a 20A variable transformer to control heater on the left, 25.2v 2A transformer boost wired through Lutron fan dimmer for 80v-140v fan control, and of course one of my two Caffe' Rostos! Read on to see how to separate heater and fan power inputs.
Picture showing stand and base. Remove the four phillips screws securing the stand to the base and remove the stand. There are 5 base screws, two of my base screw were T10 torx on both Rostos.
What you'll see after opening the base. (I already removed the spongy fan cover, forgot to take the picture with it on. Shown later putting Rosto back together.)
This shows one of the two AC in lines with stock zip tie. You'll need to cut it. The three wires are one side AC in, to one side fan, and to one side heater. Remove the wire nut, remove the lead to fan, wire nut the AC in and to heater leads back. Re-zip tie or not. The other ac line in is seen heading down to the on/off switch.
These are the two fan motor leads. The one just removed from the wire nut and the upper pictured lead with blade connector. It is removed from the top of the timer (or bottom of the timer since the Rosto is worked on up side down!)
The left bluish arrow shows the heater wire still connected to the timer. The lower red arrow is pointing to the white wire, second wire to heater. The top red arrow points to the lead coming up from the on/off switch which feeds power to the timer. A second black wire connects the two sides of the timer.
You have three heater wiring choices.
1) Leave it as is and use the timer dial and switch as before.
2) Wire the heater directly to ac.
3) Wire the heater through the switch only.
(I've roasted wired all three and prefer it wired through the switch.)
The red arrow points to the white wire, disconnected from the timer, which goes to the heater. (Remember, the other heater wire is already directly connected at the yellow wire nut.) The black wire next to it comes up from the switch and was connected at the top. (The remaining wire on the timer from side to side can be removed or left on, doesn't matter.)
The blue wire nut connects the white wire to heater with the wire from the switch. The other black wire going from side to side on the timer either leave on or take off, doesn't matter.
This shows the two fan wires connected to a new second power in cord.
Wires tucked in, fan cover in place, getting ready to put the base back on.
Could have should have used a strain relief on the new power cord for the fan. Didn't have one handy. You may have noticed in previous picture I tied an over hand knot so it can't pull through. I also wrapped with electrical tape for better protection through the opening.
Picture of transformer boosted dimmer controlled 80-140v fan controller. I'll show detailed how to as I build the up coming combined heater/fan control unit.
Links to more "stuff":
Badge from Fall 02 trade show in Portland, OR. When registering they asked for my business name. I almost said home roaster but as you can see didn't. Possibly the first known public CSA sighting:-)
Send questions or comments to: mcKona@comcast.net